Arabians, NSH & Pintos with
excellent dispositions.
Are you in someone else's frames?
Ride on out of there
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Description of the Condition Score System
| Score | Description |
| 1. Poor | Extremely emaciated. Spinal vertebrae, ribs, tailhead and point of the hip and buttock are prominent. Bone structure of withers, shoulders, and neck easily noticeable. No fat can be felt anywhere. |
| 2. Very Thin | Emaciated. Slight fat covering over base of spinal vertebrae, transverse processes of lumbar vertebrae feel rounded. Spinal vertebrae, ribs, tailhead, point of hips and buttock are prominent. Withers, shoulders, and neck structure faintly evident. |
| 3. Thin | Fat built up about halfway on spinal vertebrae, transverse processes cannot be felt. Slight fat cover over ribs. Spinal verebrae and ribs easily discernible. Tail prominent, but indiviual vertebrae cannot be visually identified. Point of hip appears rounded but easily seen. Point of buttock evident. Withers, shoulders, and neck accentuated. |
| 4. Moderately Thin | Slight ridge along the back. Faint outline of ribs visible. Tailhead prominence depends on conformation, fat can be felt around it. Point of hip not evident. Withers, shoulders and neck not obviously thin. |
| 5. Moderate | Back level. Ribs cannot be visually distinguished but can be easily felt. Fat around tailhead beginning to feel spongy. Withers appear rounded over spinal vertebrae; shoulders and neck blend smoothly into body. |
| 6. Moderate to Fleshy | May have slight ridge along back. Fat over ribs feels spongy. Fat around tailhead feels soft. Fat beginning to be deposited along the sides of the withers, behind the shoulders and along the sides of the neck. |
| 7. Fleshy | May have crease down back. Individual ribsd can be felt, but noticeable filling between ribs with fat. Fath around tailhead is soft. Fat deposited along withers behind the shoulders and along the sides of the neck. |
| 8. Fat | Crease down back. Difficult to feel ribs. Fat around tailhead very soft. Area along withers filled with fat. Area behind shoulder filled in flush. Noticeable thickening of neck. Fat deposited along inner buttocks. |
| 9. Extremely Fat | Obious crase down back. Patchy fat appearing over ribs. Bulging fat around tailhead, along withers, behind shoulders and along neck. Fat along inner buttocks may rub together. Flank filled in flush. |
To heal a bad wound or one that is hard to treat and bandage, and you are worried about proud
flesh building, use slack or pickle lime! It can be purchased at the lumberyard for a very reasonable price.
Just throw or pat on the wound and leave open to air. This works great for a pasture horse,
one that is hard to catch, or hard to keep bandaged.ly basis.
From Kristin Little
Another great wound healer is using sugar and betadine solution mixing in enough sugar to
make a paste-like consistency. I used it for hoof abcessess and large body wounds that
cannot be sutured and/or wrapped. It is reported that the glucose in the sugar speeds up
cellular mitosis by supplying energy, in conjuction with the betadine, it acts as a
anti-bacterial agent.
Works for me and it is cheap!
From Ryan William Bowman
Use a squirt gun to put an antibacterial on small wounds -- great for large herds or hard to
catch horses. "saves me a lot of time and the colts don't seem to mind at all."
Here's a tip from Di Apsey, in South Africa, who has taken a course in equine homeopathy and
uses it extensively on her own horses.
At the FIRST sign of colic, dissolve some "MAG PHOS" tissue salts in half a glass of warm
water (just swirl it around a bit - do not ever touch any homeopathic remedies by hand). Then
proceed to give one dose (a horse dose is about 8 disolved pillules) every ten minutes, per 5ml
syringe (no needle!) into the side of the horses mouth. You should see a marked improvement
within 30 minutes.
Horses who are used to getting homeopathic remedies, love it. My horses purse their lips & almost
suck it out of the syringe. It's a good idea to get horses used to this as it makes it so much easier
to give them any sort of medicine. Don't you just HATE horses who think you're trying to kill
them if you want to put any medicine in their mouths!
When using hoof saver creme on your horses hooves, use it on your hands also. It's great for
cracked and sore fingers! Keep a hoof saver bottle with the pump top on the kitchen counter
in the winter. It also works for a red baby(human) bottom.
Here's a fun tip from, Nicole Wilke, in Hawaii:
Papayas are good for horses. And they LOVE them too. But be careful, too many can cause
colic............as an occasional treat however, try it.
From Jacquie Glasscoe:
This happened to me when I was living in TN. The area vet said that my horse was lacking in
Zinc, which is not strong in the soil there, therefore, not strong enough in the hay and grain grown
there. We were from Ohio, and had excellent soil all around. I tried Moorman's mineral
supplement (I think it's name is Gro Strong, or something similar). A local trainer had said it was the only product that worked for her. My horse's skin under one eye was turning pink, and he is a
dark bay with black skin. It took a few months, but turned black again and never returned. I
have kept him and the others on this product and never had this problem again. Hope it works!
From Gail Pate, D.V.M:
Arabians , more than any other breed, occassionally have a condition known as "pinky
syndrome". In Arabians it is referred to as Arabian fading syndrome and may or may not be
exactly the same thing as the Pinky syndrome. It is most common in greys. All ages may be
affected, but it is usually younger animals. Some mares only have the problem when they're
pregnant.
The most common places for pigment to be lost is around the eyes, the muzzle and maybe the
anus area. Some management or treatment regimens which have sometimes worked include:
Putting on pasture , rather than stabling; feeding a mineral and vitamin supplement, one which
includes iodine is recommended. If only related to pregnancy, the owner might wish to consult
with their veterinarian about testing adrenal and thyroid functions. Aged Arabians frequently lose
some pigment, especially around the face or anus, and there seems to be little to be done for it.
From: Wendi Wiener
Use as a sweat on the legs, rub legs direction in of hair....Then sweat.....Works great for stocked
up legs, sore tendons, etc.....Really EVERYTHING...Horses that rub the hair on their
tails.... Rub into dock of tail:-} It's cheap and GREAT to Keep around:-}, also use as a rubdown after bathing....Is an astingent..and LOTS cheaper then other commercial products.....Can use it
straight....our 15 horses enjoy a rubdown each day with Listerine! Keep the HUGE Bottles all
around the barn....
From: J & M Bassett
Not all tail rubbing can be attributed to internal parasites. If you have a horse who has been or
has just started rubbing its tail, try this tested remedy: Fill a spray bottle with original Listerine and
soak the top half of the tail to the root with the Listerine. This can be repeated AM & PM until
the rubbing subsides. Always does the trick for us !!!
From: Sissy Crane
I've been told by my instructor that taking a corn husk and rubbing briskly up and down the
splint area will cause the blood to come up and take the calcium deposits away. This is not
something she recommended for doing during show season, since it causes soreness, but
should be done after all your activites are done. Hope this helps!
From: Kris Stump
The only thing that has worked for me and splints is to put DMSO on them and leave them
UN-WRAPPED, if you wrap them it can burn.
1.To get rid of external fungal infections on horses, try using a human 'tinea' or 'athletes foot' cream.
It is stronger and much better that iodine like 'Vetadine' which is usually prescribed and it is
fairly cheap. A few drops a day is all you will need.
2.Most fungi on horses skin respond very well to a weak solution of Lime Sulphur. It stinks and if
you have a grey horse it turns a bright shade of yellow, but it works very well. Be sure not to
use too strong a solution or you can burn the skin. Start weak and get stronger if it doesn't
work. The same strength as you would spray on the roses is about ideal. I have treated
ringworm successfully this way, and it is cheap and easy too.
3.I've had good results from Farnum Blue Lotion if it's just a few spots. Just dab it on. If the scabs
are thick and crusty, I use baby oil mixed with iodine. The iodine kills the fungus and the oil
softens the scabs. Apply for a few days, rubbing in well, then scrub off the scabs when they
are soft.
4.I have tried mixing Captan with baby oil and putting that on the fungus. It does not burn the
legs, even when wrapped. Captan is found at most nursery supply stores.
5.For treating fungus on horses. Bathe with a betadine solution (found in your local drugstore),
allow betadine to sit on skin for 10-15 min. Rinse and let dry, then apply a mixture of Captan (1
Tbs. to 1 gal. of water) to affected areas and let dry. Do not rinse off. Do this once a day for 3
days, then once a week for maintaince. Captan is a rose fungus dust found in your local lawn
and garden shop and is very inexpensive.
6.A home remedie that works really well if mixed right is diluted bleach. Mix 1 part bleach with 4
parts water. Appily directly to fugus area only. Repeat every few days until gone.
7.I once had a fungus problem when I used splint boot instead of leg wraps on all the horses I
rode during the day. The horses shared the splint boots. This created a fungus problem that was
very hard to get rid of. I finally started washing their legs with Novisan soap. I also used clean
wraps on every horse, every day. Are you using splint boots on your horse? The Novisan soap
will work if you use it every day. Also, wash your splint boots or leg wraps in it every day to keep
it under control.
8.In response to the question regarding home remedies for fungus. My horse gets a type of
fungus on her hind quarters every year. My trainer recommended the following: buy a can of sauerkraut at your supermarket; drain the juice into a container; I use a cotton ball to apply it
to the area affected; use it daily; it works for my particular fungus. It may work on yours.
9.First, make sure you keep your horse's legs very clean. Nolvasan scrub works well but any mild
soap will do. Secondly, after we rinse/bathe our horses after their schooling session, we dry
their legs and spray them with a 12 to 1 dilution of Nolvasan disinfectant. If you don't have
Nolvasan, a 1 to 4 dilution of Clorox and water works well as does regular Listerine. The most
important thing is keep the dirt and sweat cleaned off your horse's legs.
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Last updated December 10, 2000 by Buffy MacLeod
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